Відео

Happy Birthday from Sheffield :-)

@@MadeByMartyn Cheers

Thank you! It's useful knowing about the plunge but mostly I don't think I'd need it as I'm only doing sheet stuff.

The track saw is a no brainer, yes. Evolution did send me a new blade - not sure I'd ask them for a track saw! I'm not sure about having myself in the videos still. Not everyone has such a strong stomach as you mate!

I'm always worried I'll be caught thinking out loud :-)

To their credit, when I told them that I'd prefer them not to continually say things after I've told them I found them offensive they did /try/ not to be so obnoxious. Some of their family today though, well, I feared for my own safety a couple of times. In all the years I've done this, the number of really challenging patients is thankfully quite low.

You're assuming there's a point.

I've absolutely NO IDEA what that means.

@@MadeByMartyn Martin Lewis saves money Anyway Good news about food being available when tap opens

All my Calor and refillable bottles have the same connector and are 37mbar I think. We have Butane bottles that have the clip on regulator type. I've just not seen these clip on Propane before. Live and learn :-)

Great! Very happy to have helped :-)

I've now replaced the barb with a ball lock post which will make removal far easier.

This is of course completely logical :-)

The valve is there to prevent liquid seeping back into pipework. It would be a bad idea to remove it. If the keg post fails when the tank is full, you're knackered! I think that if the beer is allowed to flow back, without a valve, it will make a mess of the keg post. Why not source a hose tail that fits your existing pipe or swap out the existing pipe for pipe of the appropriate dimension?

The valve is either open or closed, it doesn't in itself prevent backflow. My concern is that this type of valve requires the two white plastic parts to be compressed against the ball of the valve. The ball lock post and disconnect are a reasonable modification if I can ensure the components of the ball valve are not compromised. The only theoretical issue, whatever connections are made, would be if the gas ran out and beer flowed back to the regulator. I use inline non return valves on gas lines so that shouldn't be a problem.

Over engineering slightly, but if you can route your gas line from up high, with a check valve (at ceiling height for example), there will always be a large "bubble" of CO2 trapped in the line thats under some amount of pressure, any liquid backflow isn't going to travel any higher than the level it sits at at the tank (the tank isn't ever going to be under more pressure than the CO2 supply). Realistically I think that's only likely to happen if you remove all pressure from the beer line and give the liquid plenty of time (days) to diffuse back through the stone. Maybe this is more of a problem when dealing with gigantic commerical scale brite tanks (where you have hundreds or thousands of litres of headspace), but these are fairly small in the scheme of things. As for the argument about making a mess of a keg post, so what! That's going to be its dedicated purpose and the ball valve effectively becomes a slightly complicated pipe 🤷‍♂️

It really is tempting...

How are you going to purge the pump and line between fermenter and bright tank? I haven't used a flojet pump.

@@MadeByMartyn I haven’t used one yet either still building it’s been three years now very easy to purge the whole setup just put the flowjet after co2 regulator and hookup to bottom of brite so when your purging that headspace the product line and flowjet is getting the same treatment then close the loop hookup from regulator to FV and turn on your compressed air to flowjet and transfer to brite and slowly open top of brite to let co2 out as it’s filling hope that helps

I'm with you on the sight glass on the mash tun. The SS Brewtech tun has something similar that shows the level of draw above and below the bed - so I'm guessing it should be the same level as the Valentine arm? I'll find out later this week :-)

I haven't ruled that out :-)

Very happy to have helped :-)

I can't remember the capacity of the freezer as I've since sold it. The kegs are the 19L Kegland. These are taller but slimmer than the AEB type (ex coca cola).

I didn't remove the cap, the hops were in a clean, sanitised fully purged fermenter. All the oxygen had been removed during that purge. Therefore when transferring from one to the other, it was completely oxygen free.

@@MadeByMartyn I will need to watch again. I saw you pump Star San in empty secondary and back out. Then video showed dry hop pellets in the bottom. Where the hops added then you put Star San on top of them??

@EricJD1966 after cleaning with Star San, transfer it back to the corny keg. Then open the top and drop the hops in, put lid back on, purge again (doesn't need much) then transfer the beer. An easy way to check anything is fully CO2 purged is to carefully sniff the PRV as you're purging - if you get a fizzy sensation you're sniffing CO2 and it's fully purged.

@@MadeByMartyn I am fairly new brewer. Two all grain brews under my belt after a few extracts. Have fermented a stout and transfer into serving corny for first keg beer. Just fermented a Kolsch in five gallon corny with a Flotit 2.0. Went to pressure transfer to second keg only to find out the float dip tube came off post… so had to use racking cane. Next wanting to do a heavy dry hopped NEIPA and probably worried too much about oxidation. And purging secondary corny with Star San and CO2 and opening lid quickly and dump pellets and seal up back up should be fine. I tend to not always Relax Don’t Worry and Have a Homebrew!!!! I pushed the limit of Kolsch in corny and had some yeast blow out the blow off so maybe that was enough to get enough movement to detach float tube???? Negative of stainless steel fermenting is one can’t see what’s going on with the fermentation process.

@EricJD1966 dip tubes do occasionally pop off - I've had it happen once. I think we can sometimes get a little too obsessed with oxygenation - at homebrew level it's important to be conscious of it, but equally as important not to let it cause undue worry. I close transfer all NEIPAs and Pales out of habit now. Enjoy :-)

They do. That was just one of the corrections made after they saw it :-)

He's really made a smashing job of both Sips :-)

Honley is full of smashing stonework - it's very much within the "Last of the Summer Wine" area.